Thursday, July 10, 2008

Toledo, Spain


Today we went to Toledo, the old capital of Spain. It was the capital of the Visigoths until it was captured by the Moors. Then, when the Christians reconquered it during the Reconquista, it was made the capital again. During the reign of Felipe II, however, he decided to move the capital to Madrid, which had hitherto been a small town of no importance - and only a couple thousand inhabitants. Evidently, the monarch chose Madrid because of its central location in the peninsula, but even more important, he wanted to mold the city to fit his own desires. Thus the city of Madrid was built to be the capital of the Spanish empire.
Toledo, on the other hand, lost much of the prestige that might have come its way. Nevertheless, Toledo has retained its fame for metal work - particularly with steel. Swords from Toledo are famous around the world. Also, the city boasts the principal cathedral in all of Spain. We´ve seen several impressive cathedrals already, but I think I liked this one the most. It was built in the classical gothic style with a large vaulted roof and many stained glass windows. Its ¨coro¨or choir loft is especially impressive with intricately carved wooded reliefs above each chair featuring portraits of Jesus´ancestery on the top level, biblical prophets on the second level, and scenes from the Reconquista on the bottom level. The podium features a large eagle which represents the gospel of St. John. (The international symbols for the other Gospels are an angel for Mathew, a lion for Mark, and a bull for Luke). The main chapel features Christian scenes from the Bible crafted in pure gold with the Nativity in the middle and the Atonement at the top. On the back side of the main chapel is a stone sculpture of the Last Supper and several other Christian symbols. The ceiling above is painted Renaissance style with pastel colors leading to an alcove in the cieling gaurded by carved figures of several prophets who stand watch over the portal into the alcove with Christ and a large window that through which shines beams of light from the sun (representing heaven).
Other things to be seen in Toledo are the Alcazar (a fort which is going through the final stages of reconstruction) that looms over the city (which was built in the bend of the Tajo River providing natural protection from invaders on two sides), the childhood home and museum of El Greco (which was closed), a famous chapel with a famous mural painted by El Greco (a famous Spanish-Greek painter) covering the far wall, and a famous Jewish sinogogue. In the sinogogue are copies of the keys that were handed over to the Catholic king by the leaders of the Muslims and the Jews when they retook Sevilla. The Jewish key´s teeth say in Spanish ¨God will open the gate¨and on the ring it says ¨The King of kings will enter.¨ I thought it was kind of interesting.´
That´s all for now. Brad

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