Saturday, July 5, 2008

Cordoba, Spain



Our last stop on our tour of southern Spain was Cordoba. The city was the most advanced city in all of Europe during most of the Middle Ages in such areas of medicine, art, architecture, etc. It was the capital of the Moors in Spain and the most important Arab city west of Damascus. During the reconquest, the Catholics took Cordoba and the Moors retreated to Granada where they held out for another 200 years through various pacts etc. During their stay in Cordoba, however, the Moors built a massive mosque famous for its candy cane horseshoe arches. The arches alternated red brick with cream colored rock to give them a candy cane look. Later additions used paint rather than bricks. When the Catholics took over, the king instructed his subjects to convert the mosque into a cathedral. The resulting mix of Arab and Christian architecture creates an odd combination. It is easy to see the Catholic additions - small enclaves around the outer wall have been converted into chapels, a central chapel built in the middle along with several adjoining additions, and ceilings painted with figures associated with Christianity. Many have lambasted the conquerors for destroying a unique, historical edifice that had no parallel in western Europe. On the other hand, the Moors had originally destroyed a Christian church that had existed earlier on the same site to build the mosque in the first place. Also, by converting the mosque into a cathedral rather than destroying it outright (as was done with all other mosques throughout Spain, some of it is preserved today in what is known as the Mesquita Catedral. In any case, it is truly an impressive site that portrays the stark differences between the architecture and art of two distinct cultures.
Other sites we saw in Cordoba were the remains of a Roman temple and a Roman bridge that has been restored and fortified and still in use today. Cordoba and Sevilla are typically the two hottest places in Spain. It was over 100 degrees F in both places. Now that we´re back in Madrid, it is back down to the high 80s.
After Cordoba, we made a stop in la Mancha en route to Madrid. La Mancha is famous as the home of Don Quijote. Before Arab occupation, it was forested; but the Arabs cut down much of the timber and the whole area is pretty open today. Few people live there, but there are acres and acres of olive trees, sunflowers, and various other crops. We were able to see several windmills such as those that inspired the most famous episode in Quijote´s adventures - when he attacked a windmill thinking that it was a giant with swinging arms. Once he crashed into it and was swept off the ground by one of its arms, he claimed that his rival (an evil magician) changed the giants into windmills. We were able to go up into one to see how they worked. Naturally, the old windmills are no longer used, since they are now being replaced by electrical counterparts. We also explored the ruins of an abandoned castle that was once used the the Knights Templars as well as several other groups during its history.
Until next time,
Brad

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