Toledo, Spain

Today we went to Toledo, the old capital of Spain. It was the capital of the Visigoths until it was captured by the Moors. Then, when the Christians reconquered it during the Reconquista, it was made the capital again. During the reign of Felipe II, however, he decided to move the capital to Madrid, which had hitherto been a small town of no importance - and only a couple thousand inhabitants. Evidently, the monarch chose Madrid because of its central location in the peninsula, but even more important, he wanted to mold the city to fit his own desires. Thus the city of Madrid was built to be the capital of the Spanish empire.
Toledo, on the other hand, lost much of the prestige that might have come its way. Nevertheless, Toledo has retained its fame for metal work - particularly with steel. Swords from Toledo are famous around the world. Also, the city boasts the principal cathedral in all of Spain. We´ve seen several impressive cathedrals already, but I think I liked this one the most. It was built in the classical gothic style with a large vaulted roof and many stained glass windows. Its ¨coro¨or choir loft is especially impressive with intricately carved wooded reliefs above each chair featuring portraits of Jesus´ancestery on the top level, biblical prophets on the second level, and scenes from the Reconquista on the bottom level. The podium features a large eagle which represents the gospel of St. John. (The international symbols for the other Gospels are an angel for Mathew, a lion for Mark, and a bull for Luke). The main chapel features Christian scenes from the Bible crafted in pure gold with the Nativity in the middle and the Atonement at the top. On the back side of the main chapel is a stone sculpture of the Last Supper and several other Christian symbols. The ceiling above is painted Renaissance style with pastel colors leading to an alcove in the cieling gaurded by carved figures of several prophets who stand watch over the portal into the alcove with Christ and a large window that through which shines beams of light from the sun (representing heaven).
Other things to be seen in Toledo are the Alcazar (a fort which is going through the final stages of reconstruction) that looms over the city (which was built in the bend of the Tajo River providing natural protection from invaders on two sides), the childhood home and museum of El Greco (which was closed), a famous chapel with a famous mural painted by El Greco (a famous Spanish-Greek painter) covering the far wall, and a famous Jewish sinogogue. In the sinogogue are copies of the keys that were handed over to the Catholic king by the leaders of the Muslims and the Jews when they retook Sevilla. The Jewish key´s teeth say in Spanish ¨God will open the gate¨and on the ring it says ¨The King of kings will enter.¨ I thought it was kind of interesting.´
That´s all for now. Brad

Madrid, Spain

We´ve seen many wonderful sites here in the capital. Our first full day here, we went on a bus tour of the city. The next day, we left on a tour of southern Spain; but since we´ve gotten back, we´ve seen some amazing sites. The Royal Palace is a majestic building with several wings. Each room was designed with a different theme in mind. Some have statues of famous kings or personages from mythology. Others have tapestries and intricate rugs with scenes of famous events - most with a religious or mythological theme. All of them have painted ceilings - some Renasaince style similar to the Cistene Chapel, others with geometric designs in color coded patterns. Each room had it´s own purpose, and the king and queen had several rooms each to take care of various functions (sleeping room, dressing room, personal dining room, etc.) The palace also had wings for the Royal pharmacy, the Royal armoury, the Royal theatre, etc. The palace is no longer used as the personal residence of the king and queen, but is being preserved as a national monument.
The Cathedral of Madrid is a massive church on par with the cathedrals in Sevilla and Granada. It´s main claim to fame however is that it is still used by the monarchy to perform royal weddings. It is located right next to the palace.
The Prado is the most famous museum in Spain. It has four floors with paintings, statues, and sculptures of famous artists from around Europe. Although most are Spanish (Goya, Velazquez, El Greco, and Murillo among others), there are many sculptures and paintings from other famous artist from Italy and France. The most famous name I recognized was Rafael. The main themes were once again Christian themes (particularly Christ´s death and birth) and mythology. Naturally, there were many works of art that portrayed the human body in its natural form.
The Retiro is the most famous park in Spain. It has acres and acres of footpaths, trees, and lakes. On a typical weekend, thousands of visitors will flock to the park to jog, row boats on one of the lakes, look at the statues, fountains, and "palaces", feed the fish and ducks, or walk around and enjoy the various entertainments. Others make their money by selling food or nick-nacks to the passersby, performing small skits, puppet shows, songs on musical instruments, juggling, magic shows, or posing as statues in exotic outfits. I probably saw only 20% of the park in the hour and a half we were there.
If you go for a walk downtown, you will see marvelous buildings built with arches, columns, and spires in various architectual styles from classical to gothic to modern. There are dozens of plazas with statues and fountains and monuments at almost every major intersection. It would take a full size picture book to do justice to the many sites to be seen - I know because I bought one. We could spend another month here going through the various museums and parks; but instead we´ll probably visit some of the smaller towns on the outskirts to get to know another part of Spain that isn´t as evident in the cities. We did see the temple from the outside (it´s beautiful) and plan on doing a session later. I´m looking forward to it. You may have noticed that I´ve posted three long posts today. That´s because the museums are closed on Mondays. I´m planning on going back to El Retiro after this - now that it´s starting to cool down. See you later, Brad.

Homes in Spain (Madrid)

Madrid is the capital, and most populated city, in Spain. We will be spending about a third of our time here either in Madrid or the surrounding towns. Like most cities, there are no residential houses in Madrid - at least that I´ve seen. Everyone lives in pisos - apartment style homes. For this middle week of our trip, we are staying with residential families. The home I´m staying in is probably an average sized piso. It is on the fourth floor and has three small bedrooms (mine is the smallest - about 7´by 12´), a small living room, a small dining room, a small bathroom, and a small kitchen. There is also a small porch outside one of the bedrooms (about 2 ft. by 4 ft.) and a small enclosed area between two pisos with cords to hang laundry. The bottom floor of most apartment buildings is reserved for small businesses. The entryway for our apartment building is between a bank and a store. The mailboxes are located in the entryway, and there is a small elevator and set of stairs leading up. Most apartment buildings are probably between 5 and 10 floors high.
Hardly anyone has a garage - even though most families in Spain now own a small car. They are an impractical form of transportation in major cities, such as Madrid, so most people continue to use public transportation (bus, taxi, or subway) or walk to work because it is extremely hard to find places to park. Most curbs are packed with automobiles, so you need a tiny car to fit into any nook that remains. Any parking lots are underground - and there aren´t many of these either. That is why many people double park with their emergency lights flashing if they´re not going to be gone long. It isn´t legal, but the police usually turn a blind eye because they understand the problem.
Also, the water heaters are small. When you take a shower, you are expected to turn off the water while you are lathering up your body or hair, and then turn it back on again to wash off. Otherwise, someone is going to be stuck with a cold shower. Spaniards are very conservation minded and always turn off lights when not in use and turn off the water while brushing their teeth, shaving or washing dishes. Since Americans are notorious water wasters, most hotels have signs posted in the bathroom reminding the guests of these useful measures. Since the pension I´m staying at usually has at least one student staying there, the dona has small stickers posted in the bathroom saying the same thing.
I hope you´ve gained a better appreciation of how things are in other parts of the world. Keep in mind that Spain is a European country with one of the highest standards of living in the world. Only in the US (and maybe Canada) will you find the type of living conditions we take for granted. Waste not, want not. Maybe we should take note.

Food, meals, etc.

One of the biggest differences Í´ve noticed since coming to Spain is food. First of all, mealtimes are different. In Spain, people typically eat breakfast at about 8:00 or 9:00. Lunch, the big meal of the day, is usually between 1:00 and 4:00. Dinner is typically between 8:00 and 12:00. For breakfast, most people eat bread and coffee - maybe a fruit on the side. Another popular breakfast is churros with chocolate - they dip the churros in a cup of very thick hot chocolate. Lunch is usually 3 courses. The first plate is a starter - a salad, soup, rice plate, etc. The second plate is usually the main dish. Then the third course is a dessert or coffee. During the lunch hours, most shops and stores are closed so that their employees can eat too - and maybe take a siesta. In southern Spain especially, where it is too hot to be out and about (think Phoenix or Tucson). Because most business take a break in the early afternoon, businesses close later, so people go out for dinner later too. Dinner can be a 3 course event too, but is typically smaller (two courses). Another popular variation is to go out for "tapas." Basically, a small group of friends will often go bar hopping. (These bars are more like English pubs, where you can order drinks, meals, or both.) Usually, someone will order a large plate of something divided into portions to share. The person who ordered it will pay for it; then someone else will pay at the next place. Or, if they go somewhere where everyone orders combination plates, they usually just get one bill and split the price among everyone - without worrying about how expensive each plate was. Also, most restaurants bring out a couple of bread rolls and a bowl of olives to eat while waiting for the first course. Taxes are usually included in the listed price (for everything, not just food) unless is says IVA (impuestos van aparte). Also, the servers salaries are already figured in as well. You aren´t expected to tip unless you felt the service was really good - but most people leave the change anyway. Another interesting novelty is the menu del dia. Most restaurants will have a posted menu of the day. They make it in bulk that day because most people will order it: 1) because it is usually cheaper; 2) because it is usually a house specialty; and 3) because it doesn´t take as long to be served. It is usually 2-3 courses and usually has a 3-4 options for each course. Smoking is permitted in most small restaurants, but large restaurants must offer a non-smoking area. Also, restaurants usually have certain hours. It is hard to find one open between 10:00 and 12:00 in the morning or 4:00 and 7:00 in the evening. And if you do find one, the available menu will be limited. Also, if you go late, they often run out of many items on the menu. Since meals are a major social event, most people tend to stay for 30-60 minutes after the meal to talk. Waiters do not rush their clients and won´t bring the bill until asked. This is why the veranda seats are extremely popular. Many restaurants charge slightly different prices for the same food depending on where you are sitting - the bar is the least expensive, then the tables inside, with the outside dining being the most expensive (up to 10%). Some popular Spanish dishes are paella (Spanish rice with many things mixed in - vegetables, sea food, meats - with many different varieties depending on the region), gazpacho (a cold tomatoe soup with other veggies mixed in), and Tortilla Española (an omelate type dish made with potatoes instead of eggs). They´re all delicious - even the gazpacho.
Like I said, it´s a different culture. Buen provecho!

Cordoba, Spain

Our last stop on our tour of southern Spain was Cordoba. The city was the most advanced city in all of Europe during most of the Middle Ages in such areas of medicine, art, architecture, etc. It was the capital of the Moors in Spain and the most important Arab city west of Damascus. During the reconquest, the Catholics took Cordoba and the Moors retreated to Granada where they held out for another 200 years through various pacts etc. During their stay in Cordoba, however, the Moors built a massive mosque famous for its candy cane horseshoe arches. The arches alternated red brick with cream colored rock to give them a candy cane look. Later additions used paint rather than bricks. When the Catholics took over, the king instructed his subjects to convert the mosque into a cathedral. The resulting mix of Arab and Christian architecture creates an odd combination. It is easy to see the Catholic additions - small enclaves around the outer wall have been converted into chapels, a central chapel built in the middle along with several adjoining additions, and ceilings painted with figures associated with Christianity. Many have lambasted the conquerors for destroying a unique, historical edifice that had no parallel in western Europe. On the other hand, the Moors had originally destroyed a Christian church that had existed earlier on the same site to build the mosque in the first place. Also, by converting the mosque into a cathedral rather than destroying it outright (as was done with all other mosques throughout Spain, some of it is preserved today in what is known as the Mesquita Catedral. In any case, it is truly an impressive site that portrays the stark differences between the architecture and art of two distinct cultures.
Other sites we saw in Cordoba were the remains of a Roman temple and a Roman bridge that has been restored and fortified and still in use today. Cordoba and Sevilla are typically the two hottest places in Spain. It was over 100 degrees F in both places. Now that we´re back in Madrid, it is back down to the high 80s.
After Cordoba, we made a stop in la Mancha en route to Madrid. La Mancha is famous as the home of Don Quijote. Before Arab occupation, it was forested; but the Arabs cut down much of the timber and the whole area is pretty open today. Few people live there, but there are acres and acres of olive trees, sunflowers, and various other crops. We were able to see several windmills such as those that inspired the most famous episode in Quijote´s adventures - when he attacked a windmill thinking that it was a giant with swinging arms. Once he crashed into it and was swept off the ground by one of its arms, he claimed that his rival (an evil magician) changed the giants into windmills. We were able to go up into one to see how they worked. Naturally, the old windmills are no longer used, since they are now being replaced by electrical counterparts. We also explored the ruins of an abandoned castle that was once used the the Knights Templars as well as several other groups during its history.
Until next time,
Brad

Granada, Spain

I´m a little behind because I didn´t have much internet access on our trip through southern Spain. Now that I´m back in Madrid, I should have a little more time. We were in Granada on June 30 - July 2. While there, we got to see the famous cathedral that was built by los Reyes Catolicos Fernando y Isabel (Ferdinand and Isabella). They are credited with completing the Reconquest of Spain by driving the Jews and Muslims out in 1492 and thereby creating the nation of Spain by uniting the various provinces under the Catholic church. There was no separation of church and state at that time; thus, one of their first acts was to tear down the local mosque and build the cathedral. There is a central chapel located on a raised platform with a backdrop, and there are open chapels surrounding the main room, but the only area that can be closed off from the rest of the cathedral is the vestibulario which was used by the catholic priests to change into their robes. There is a sign over the door (in Latin) which advises the priests to remember that they are removing their street clothing and putting on the robes of Christ. The cathedral doors, walls, and chapels are adorned with Renaissance style paintings and carvings representing the various saints and heavenly figures related to various historical episodes of Christian history. Next to the cathedral is the Royal Chapel. Inside is the sepulchre of Fernando and Isabel. Evidently, they chose Granada as their final resting place because they felt that the reconquest of the city and thus uniting the various provinces under one kingdom was their greatest legacy. Inside the chapel is a small museum that houses the sword of Fernando and the crown and scepter of Isabel.
The other great building we saw was La Alhambra. It is a series of palaces, gardens, and fortifications on top of a large hill in the center of the city. The fort, a mosque, the gardens, fountains, and palaces were built by the Arab Muslims that ruled Southern Spain for about 800 years. Since Islam prohibits the adoration of inanimate objects, they didn´t use any representations of living beings in their artwork. Instead, they used intricate geometric patterns to decorate their buildings. The arches, columns, ceilings, fountains, and gardens are awesome works of art. Unfortunately, my camera batteries died halfway through and my extras wouldn´t work, so I´ll have to get some copies from the other teachers. After the reconquest, Carlos V, grandson of the Catholic kings, built himself his own palace with an amphitheatre in the middle on the site where the mosque had stood.
Granada was amazing! I bought a book if anyone is interested in looking through it later. I´ve got to go. Hasta luego!

The Eurocup

When we arrived in Spain, the European Cup was already underway. Last Thursday, Spain beat Russia to advance to the Finals against Germany. The streets were full of people celebrating and honking horns, etc. But that was nothing. Sunday evening was the final game. We stayed in Malaga Sunday and went to a local ward - the mission president happened to be there - at 10:30. In the late afternoon, we drove down to a small town on the coast where the mom of one of the BYU professors grew up. We got to see what a small Spanish town was like while she took pictures of the neighborhood, etc. The streets were empty because everyone was in the bars or restaurants watching the game on the big screens. (Usually the streets are full of people all evening until about 1 am.) We drove back to Malaga and arrived right about the time the game ended. Spain won 1-0 and people started pouring into the streets chanting "Ole, ole, ole!" or ¨"España!" Then cars and mopeds full of teenagers started cruising the streets, hanging out of the windows, waving Spanish flags, shouting, singing, etc. Some girls had the flag wrapped around them superhero style while they clung onto their boyfriends´ backs as they cruised around on mopeds. Groups of kids stood out in the plaza with their parents waving flags, singing, chanting, jumping up and down. It was pure pandemonium. I took way too many pictures of the cars that drove by because I wasn´t sure which ones would turn out. I´ll have to figure out how to attach pictures later because I´m not sure how to do it and I only have two minutes left on my internet usage. Anyways, it was the first time Spain won the Euro Cup in 44 years. Needless to say, they were excited. The noise lasted until after one in the morning when I finally fell asleep. Things are going great here. I´ll post more about my adventures the next time I´m able to get ahold of a computer. Hasta luego!